ICOSAE SS16: WARPED STATIC SILHOUETTES AND ATMOSPHERIC MOVEMENT
ICOSAE, the name derived from 'icosahedron' (a geometrical shape of twenty symmetrical sides), is a menswear collective made up of Valentin Glémarec, Anthony Hor and Florentin Glémarec. Using their backgrounds in fine art, graphic design and fashion, the trio works together to to push the boundaries of clothing design.
“Our brand is multifaceted, we have training in different areas. For example, some of us went from studying fine art then leaned towards making collections and some members of our team have worked with big brands including Givenchy so we have an understanding of fast paced nature of the system. We do not discriminate with our skills in art direction to pattern work.”
'SWEAT DREAMS' offers warped static silhouettes with atmospheric movement building a theme that reconstructs strict uniforms with subtle movement in fabric compositions. Also included is a range of prints and patchwork all painted in-house. The print of the season is a painting entitled 'POÏ (OI, OI)' serenades the collection by offering a melancholic nod to the British punk movement.
“There is an element of punk in our work, we all met in skate parks and skated in fully tailored clothing. Elegance is punk, strictness in uniform is punk. We are born into the generation of street wear where we can take from it, but also have a right to refuse it. We see a great element of uniform and pride in Icosae. Accepting a generation of mass consumers can be difficult so we like to soften the world a little by offering long lasting pieces that can be passed down to generations. We still own some garments that belong to our ancestors.”
Despite the nod to the British punk movement, Icosae's core inspiration comes from their home, which is why the collection, offering an uncompromising range of tailored pants, patchwork shirting and summer coats, are all 100% designed and constructed in France.
“Our family is from Brittany and our grandfather (seen in campaign) was a marine that represented the people of France. We still have an archive of clothing we often look to for referencing when it comes to our practice in tailoring. We don’t look to the past often but we certainly like to respect the craft of tailoring and its devotion to time. This is why we make our clothes in France.”
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